Maintenance
T4E Trouble Shooting, FAQ, and Preventative Maintenance Tips:
Feeding Issues During 1st Use:
When your T4E gun is new it is best to break it down, clean the barrel, and use T4E Oil or Elite Force Slick Silicone Spray on the bolt assembly and the brass wind pipe that the magazine connects to before 1st use. The gun is mostly dry when shipped and oiling allows for best function. You may experience short cycles and have to charge the rifle after each shot if it does not have proper lubrication. You should also add 2 drops of T4E Oil (2292100) or Elite Force Slick Silicone Spray (2211069) to the top of the magazine as seen in the owner's operation manual for the 1st use. Note: Double charging your T4E gun will cause an extra round to fall out of the barrel.
Low Power Shots, Feeding Issues, and Loss of Accuracy:
In these instances, the CO2 capsule is most likely exhausted and needs to be changed. A 12 gram CO2 cartridge will last 40 to 45 shots when performing at its best based on the amount of air lost when tightening the piercing screw on the magazine. If the CO2 leaks from inside the magazine check the tightness of the piercing screw. If the seal around the top of the CO2 is damaged then this can also cause leaking when the screw is completely tight. If the seal is pinched you may be able to replace the CO2 and reposition it to fix the leaking. If the seal is damaged then a replacement seal will be necessary. Page 4 of the owner's operation manual has detailed information under the “Handling CO2” section. Do not leave the CO2 inside the magazine when you store it after use as it can cause the seals to breakdown and leak. T4E Oil or Elite Force Slick Silicone Spray oil can be used on the seal and left overnight to help revitalize it. If you put oil into the barrel you will have a loss of accuracy usually causing the rounds to dive downward.
The Bolt is Not Locking Back on Last Shot:
The most likely cause is a low or depleted CO2 capsule. If changing the CO2 does not fix the issue, then the follower is not coming to the top of the magazine. Check for debris in the mag well, check the lever on the top left side of the magazine. If the screw holding it in place is too tight or damaged, it will prevent the follower from coming to the top of the magazine. When the follower is locked down inside the mag well this lever will move with ease by hand allowing the follower to extend out of the top of the magazine when it is empty which locks the bolt open.
When Using Powder or Paintballs:
If a ball ruptures in the gun or magazine it will need to be cleaned of debris thoroughly. The gun will most likely have feeding issues and rupture more balls in the chamber. If a rupture is in the magazine it can push debris into the gun. The powder can mix with the oil producing a gritty goo. The bolt assembly will have to be removed, cleaned and oiled. The complete removal procedure for the bolt assembly is located on page 8 of the owner's operation manual and on the backside of the loading and function instruction sheet. It is not recommended to store the marker rounds in extreme cold or high heat conditions nor to leave them laying in a hot or cold area. The cold makes them hard and brittle and excessive heat will cause them to become soft and rupture easily. When using T4E training paint and powder rounds in warmer conditions keep them shaded and not exposed to direct sun when not in use. The accuracy on powder and paintballs is ideal at 30 feet or less. If a round is too small it may roll from the barrel when pointed at a downward angle. There is a detent in the barrel to hold the round in place for firing but can allow the smaller out of spec rounds to fall out of the barrel. Note: Double charging your T4E gun will cause an extra round to fall out of the barrel.
When Using Rubber Balls:
If T4E rubber balls are exposed to warmer humid conditions they can become tacky and sticky. This can cause feeding issues. To remedy this it is best to add a very small amount of T4E oil or synthetic silicon oil to the bag of rubber balls and work throughout the bag to distribute the oil evenly over the rounds before using. If re-using rubber balls be sure to clean them and add a very small amount of the T4E oil if they are tacky for best function in T4E guns. Rubber balls have best accuracy under 100 feet. Note: too much oil can cause them to dive downward at distances more than 33 feet.
When Using the T4E Guns Outside:
Do not store your T4E training gun, magazine or supplies in the sun. For best performance have a covered or shaded area to stage the guns for an exercise. Wait until ready to use to load and pierce the CO2 in the magazine. When in high heat conditions the CO2 can expand resulting in higher operating pressure and cause leaking around the seals producing abnormal power shots and malfunctions. The owner's operation manual has detailed information under the “Handling CO2” section.
CO2 Handling:
CO2 capsules can be affected by certain conditions impacting proper performance. Fast consecutive shooting will result in lower velocities, diminished accuracy and fewer shots per CO2 capsule. In colder temperatures, it is recommended to allow for more time between shots. This will allow the gas to increase in temperature and pressure to produce normal velocities. High Temperatures can increase pressure in the CO2 and when inside the marker it can cause a malfunction. The temperature should never exceed 122 degrees for the CO2. This can be reached by leaving the marker in direct sunlight for a long period of time. Above this temperature, it could rupture causing severe injury to persons nearby and damage to the marker. The owner's operation manual has detailed information under the “Handling CO2” section. Note: Do not leave the CO2 cartridge inside the magazine when you store it after use as it can cause the seals to breakdown and leak.
Chopping of Paint or Powder Dust:
The most likely cause is deformed or miss shaped balls. If T4E ammo is exposed to extreme conditions such as heat, cold, or moisture it can become deformed and oblong. Check the ammo for deformities as an oval shape can cause issues.
The Bolt Assembly:
This is a wear component of the gun and will wear out between 3,000 and 5,000 rounds fired. It is recommended to replace the bolt assembly every 3,000 to 3,500 rounds fired for optimal performance. If the rubber seal on the launcher is damaged it can cause low power shots. If powder and debris build up in the bolt it will cause function issues. Keep the bolt clean and oiled with T4E oil or Elite Force Slick Silicone oil. When the bolt becomes worn it will be very hard to actuate the launcher or a stress fracture can be seen on any of the 3 wall sections of the launcher. The complete removal procedure for the bolt assembly is located in the owner's operation manual.
For Excess Powder or Paint Build-up:
Most of the paint or powder can be wiped out easily. The paint and powder can be cleaned using warm soapy water. Do not use petroleum-based oil or regular gun oil in the air guns. Petroleum-based oil can cause a combustion effect in airguns called dieseling that can damage the marker. T4E guns function best when clean and oiled with T4E Oil or Elite Force Slick Silicone oil.
Using T4E Paintballs:
After cleaning with any water-based cleaner make sure the marker is dried before using paintballs as the water will cause them to swell and create feeding issues.
CO2 Seal:
To revitalize a worn magazine CO2 seal you can apply silicone oil to the seal and leave overnight to help prevent leaks and loss of use. Here is a video showing the use of silicone oil for markers, airguns, and airsoft guns:T4E Maintenance
Troubleshooting and repair info for the T4E 43 cal pistols
Some issues are gun specific but others are universal in several models. There are several dealer and consumer made videos on you tube showing repairs and disassembly. I have included some I know of at the end of the sheet. The most common issues on the 43 cal 2292101, 2292102, 2292104 PPQ, 2292124, 2292125 S&W, 2292127, 2292128 TPM1 and 2292166, 2292167 Glock:
There is no need to install the black rubber ball spring in the US model magazines. This spring is for a heavy steel core only offered in Europe. It will cause excess pressure on the balls and make the trigger harder to pull.
The mag does not release from gun. The magazine has been dropped and dented the top of the magazine. The top silver portion is made of soft metal. When this happens the inner barrel of the gun will stick in the mag when the trigger is pulled. If it is dented severely then it will not release the barrel and you cannot drop the mag and the trigger will not function properly. To repair the inner barrel will need to be pulled forward with something that does not damage it. Once the inner barrel is worked forward to normal position drop the mag and inspect the top or compare to a good mag it will be fairly obvious if it is deformed. The rebuild kit 2292158 for the S&W & TPM1 will work for the Glock mag and the new VP9 this is a complete replacement top of the mag and will repair the issue or the customer can buy a new mag. The 2292111 PPQ mag rebuild kit does not come with the front portion and will not repair this issue the customer will need to purchase a new mag. The below diagram shows part 7-02 as it is the part that gets dented.
Cleaning issues. If the markers are extremely dirty, full of paint or dust debris the inner barrel can feel gritty and sometimes stick like a dented magazine when the trigger is pulled. The debris can also get into the trigger and firing pin area causing firing and slide locking issues. A good visual inspection will determine cleanliness. To clean the gun can be placed in warm soapy water and working the trigger and slide until free. Rinse well, blow dry and lubricate well all moving part areas with silicon oil.
Leaky Magazine. Just like all CO2 guns silicon oil is the best thing for them to function proper and not leave it in the mag for extended amounts of time (several days). Trying to revitalize the mag by inserting silicon into the opening in the top front of the mag working the valve plunger and let sit overnight will help the mag work longer after that the Rebuild kits 2292111 PPQ and 2292158 for the other 43 cal models will fix the issue or purchasing to replace the mag.
The trigger does not always fire the gun when pulled The issue is caused by the spring 1-34 coming out of place and not holding the trigger bar into proper alignment. This usually is an intermittent issue as sometimes the gun will fire and other times it will not. The spring is located on the right side of the gun. It is under the silver bar and goes into a hole on the frame and fits inside a groove under this bar to hold into place. The fix for this is for someone comfortable disassembling the gun. Start by removing the slide, take the front roll pin out from right to left. Pull the slide back all the way and lifting the back up to remove it like a Walther PPK slide. Then removing the remaining 1 or 2 roll pins in the lower frame right to left allowing the trigger group and barrel system to come out complete allowing access to the spring location under the bar 1-08. Refitting the spring or replace if missing then reassembling the gun.
Balls rolling out the barrel. This is a rare issue caused by the ball keeper 3-07 being broken or worn. This is a small part that is just below the barrel opening where the inner barrel comes back into the magazine. To replace the slide will need to be removed. There is a small roll pin 3-09 that goes thru the rear of the assembly that need to be pushed right to left. Remove the broken part and install the new keeper with needle nose pliers to push into place, make sure the spring 3-12 is in position on the keeper. Then reinstall the pin 3-09 left to right thru the hole in the keeper. (We have these as a non-inventory part)
Broken Mag Release. This is only a S&W issue. To repair remove the back strap and pull lock the slide open to access the mag area conveniently. Install the new release in the slot. The locking spring 1-31 will need to have the long end to the left of the gun inserted into the release then with a screwdriver and needle nose pliers pull the right side into place between the release and frame. You need to push down on the keeper spring from the top to lock into place. (We have these as a non-inventory part for repairs)
The gun will not fire at all when the trigger is pulled. This is most likely a broken firing pin. To verify the 2-11 pin is broken you can pull the slide to the rear and lock open. Look underneath and you will see the 2-04 silver firing pin block. If there is no pin in the back side then it has broken. You will need (a large nut that fits between the rear of the slide and firing pin block, long open end tube and hammer to tap the 2-12 keeper washers onto the 2-11 pin). To repair remove the slide. Insert the new 2-11 firing pin with 2-9 spring into the rear of the 2-04 block. Place the large nut (or shim) between the pin and rear of slide holding it forward thru the block taping into place helps hold it for repair. Place the 2-05 green seal on the front of the firing pin. Place the 2-12 keeper onto the pin. Using the long open end tube and a small hammer tap the 2-12 keeper onto the pin. Reinstall the slide. (We have these as a non-inventory part for repairs)
Below are links to helpful videos.
Firing pin replacement: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yPQqfOcBkFs
Marker disassembly: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QyVGdetZZAc
Magazine Repair: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_2cc83LMP7s